Leek and Walnut Dumplings Two Ways
One of my favorite restaurants and an unknown yearning for dumplings....
I recently had a serendipitous trip to one of my favorite restaurants, Agi’s Counter, for lunch with my dear friend Tin. Agi’s has become a staple neighborhood spot for me and many others. It’s also received some well-deserved praise.
Agi’s is an Eastern European lunch counter (serving breakfast and dinner too) offering a perfect blend of rustic, familiar, and elegant dishes you feel like your grandma cooked. From deviled eggs with boquerones to a perfect tuna melt, palacsinta (Hungarian crepes), and a Caraway Caesar, the menu boasts several hits.
I almost always order the Pogacsa, which I believe is one of the best breakfast sandwiches in the city. Consisting of a perfectly runny egg with alpine cheddar sandwiched between one of the best biscuits I’ve ever had. Quite different than a southern biscuit, it’s not too dense or crumbly, but has an incredibly crisp exterior and tender interior.
But we’re not here to talk about that… What caught my attention on the menu was the nokedeli soup – grated dumplings in chicken broth. While I’m familiar with spaetzle and various European dumpling dishes, I had never encountered this style of shredded dumpling soup before. Intrigued by its description and craving something comforting on a cold late morning, I decided to give it a try.
And let me tell you, it did not disappoint. Adorned with enough dill to not know what you’re diving into I took my first bite. The deep, subtle chicken broth was infused with chewy and plump pieces of what I presumed were flour dumplings. It was simply perfect – a reflection of the restaurant's ethos: confident, simple, and impeccably executed. It’s a dish that would feel oddly familiar to anyone who takes a bite. It took me back to my childhood when I was home sick, and my mom would bring me chicken noodle soup. It was a warm hug.
Much of my recent culinary inspiration has stemmed directly from dishes I've enjoyed at restaurants, and this soup was no exception. I realized with this style of dough you can really add a whole number of things into it- spices, seeds, nuts, or any sautéed or pureed veggie. I combined sautéed leeks and crushed, toasted walnuts with flour to create these chewy and deeply flavorful dumplings. The broth, made from a combination of sautéed veggies, aromatics, and a good glug of olive oil, was simmered until tender and rich.
What I particularly love about simple dumpling doughs like this is their versatility – not only in how they're formed but also in how they're served. With the leftover dumpling dough, I experimented by blanching it and treating it like gnocchi, sautéing it in brown butter with chestnuts and sage.
Leek and Walnut Dumplings in Brodo
Ingredients: