Meyer Lemon + Wild Mushroom Pasta
My favorite pantry pasta inspired by one of my favorite meals
It’s 6 pm - I’ve been working all day, and hunger starts to take control. The last thing I want to do is cook, but the thought of paying well over $20 for a mediocre salad or tepid tacos to be dropped at my doorstep is even more disheartening.
This feeling is not new for me, and I’m sure many can relate. There is usually one dish I always fall back on when this moment arises, and that’s pantry pasta. I don’t know if I’ve ever gone a period without having at least one bag of dried pasta in my apartment. It’s one of the first things most people learn how to cook. The dried noodle is universally praised as a quick and delicious vehicle for a variety of sauces, condiments, and garnishes. Its ability to take on flavors, subtle or mild, is unmatched, and for me, there’s nothing quite as comforting.
I’ve shared a few of these pastas in the past like this Jarred Artichoke Pasta and this Broccoli Rabe Pasta, but this Meyer Lemon Mushroom Pasta may be my favorite. Covid-stricken, I made this when I wanted something luscious without too much effort. The inspiration came from one of my favorite meals I’ve had to date. Last summer, in Milan, I was lucky to dine at La Latteria before it closed. Husband and wife, Maria and Arturo Maggi, have been running this restaurant for over 70 years, feeding some of the biggest fashion designers, celebrities, and artists. When I first went, I was lucky enough to dine with a regular who told me she’s been coming since she was a child. She shared here love of the family that she’s become so close with over the years, the fact that they’ve adamantly never done reservations, and how it’s not uncommon for people to come in for both lunch and dinner. I myself ended up coming back in the next day for lunch. The food is inspiringly simple. There is no hiding behind complex sauces or an array of ingredients.
To start, I ordered tomatoes that came thickly sliced and doused in olive oil and basil. I later found out they came from their farm south of Milan where they spend their weekends. As a main, I had the Pasta al Limone. Perfectly al dente spaghetti with diced lemon, parsley, and a good glug of olive oil. Never have I had something so simple, so restrained, but so delicious. I couldn’t get it out of my head.
Fast forward a few months, and I am on day three of covid hibernation and am itching for a home-cooked meal. In my fridge, I find a few Meyer lemons and some mushrooms hours away from being too sad to use. The pasta from La Latteria comes back into my head, and I try to channel Chef Maggi. Video and recipe below!