The Importance Of A Well Stocked Pantry
Cut down prep time and enhance flavor with these secret weapons
It started with Sardines. My dad always kept them in the house. King Oscar Sardines in Extra Virgin Olive Oil, he never strayed. I was skeptical at first. As an 8 or 9 year old I couldn’t comprehend eating fish from a can. I didn’t know what to make of it. Not to mention my mom’s fit of rage and disgust every time he’d crack open a tin. But after a few observant afternoons of watching my dad build his little open face saltine cracker sandwiches with raw onion, I built up enough courage to give it a go. It was a turning point.
These days I have become mildly obsessed with exploring the world of canned and jarred products. It developed when I worked my only restaurant job, a line cook at Huertas (RIP), where I was introduced to the incredible products coming out of the Basque region and Spain in general. There’s significant tradition of canning seafood in the small port towns of Spain and Portugal that has been passed down for generations.
These products have changed how I cook at home. What I love about conservas and antipasti is that you’re able to devour peak season produce year round.
Below you will find a breakdown of basic pantry staples you should always have, some elevated/adventurous pantry additions, brands I love, and places to buy.
For the sake of my sanity, and yours, I am not including sauces, spreads, or dips.
The Staples:
Capers
A staple for most. I highly recommend buying salt-packed capers for an extra punch. I love to fry them up and use them as a garnish on salads.
Marinated Artichokes
If you’ve followed me for awhile you know about my love of jarred artichokes. Find the ones that are marinated or packed in olive oil.
Good Vinegars
I would recommend keeping a stock of distilled, apple cider, white wine, red wine, rice, and sherry. Hot take, I don’t like balsamic but i do like white balsamic! If you want to stock some more exciting vinegars check out these brands; O, Acid League, and Tart.
Olives
Castelvetranos
The best olive. Bar none. Change my mind.
Martini Olives
I love a good stuffed olive for a martini. Jalapeño, blue cheese, garlic, anchovy, pimento…. the world is your oyster.
Tinned Fish
Historically, in America, tinned fish have been misunderstood, luckily that is changing. These small fish are typically very high quality, processed at peak season, and loaded with tons of nutrients and good fats. I always have tins of anchovies, sardines, tuna, and mussels.
Canned Beans
The quickest and most affordable way to a have nutritious meal.
Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce
Very affordable and a killer addition to a marinade or sauce. Deep flavor that doesn’t compare, at a price that will never break the bank.
Sun-dried Tomatoes
You don’t need them. Buy tomato paste instead.
Perserved Peppers
The world of preserved peppers is endless. A few I love are Piquillo Peppers, Hatch Green Chiles, Guindilla Peppers, Pickled Hot Peppers, and Banana Peppers.
Pickles
An obvious but vast choice. If you are not making quick-pickled red onions regularly, you need to change that…. like now.
The Adventurous:
Caper Leaves
Briny like capers but much more mild and buttery rich. Fantastic with delicately cooked fish and in a salad.
Yuzu Kosho
Peppers fermented with salt and yuzu citrus. Very unique peppery acidic hit to any dish. Fantastic with raw seafood.
Tinned Fish:
Calamari in Squid Ink
Cockles
Baby Eels
Razor Clams
White Asparagus
The quintessential example of a highly seasonal ingredient picked at it’s peak and preserved to be eaten year round.
Salsa Macha
Salsa from Veracruz, Mexico. Think chili oil with garlic, nuts, and seeds. Highly versatile and downright delicious.
Instant Dashi
These packets will take your cooking to a new level. A key ingredient in miso soup, a few sprinkles will elevate even the blandest of water.
Sea Fennel
A recent find. This superfood has a ton of vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients, and antioxidants. Similarly to samphire, you can find it on rocky coastlines.
Preserved Lemons
A fairly common pantry item now. Fruity, floral, and umami. They add a salty tangy punch that normal lemons just can’t do.
Cardoons
A winter vegetable of the Mediterranean. Don’t be intimidated by its prickly disposition. It looks almost like a large celery stalk but tastes similar to an artichoke.
Cornichons
The bougie pickle. Throw them in a martini, a tuna salad sandwich, a cheese plater OR batter and deep fry them for the fanciest fried pickle you’ve ever had.
Date Molasses
Not as tart as pomegranate molasses. I love using it as a sugar or honey replacement in savory dishes. Throw some in or on top of banana bread or olive oil cake for a slice of heaven.
Where to buy:
Despaña
A Spanish Specialty food store based in NYC. I highly recommend perusing one of their 3 locations in the city before you have you’re next dinner party or while you’re on your next grocery run. Lucky for you, they also have a great online retail store where you can get their products shipped to your door no matter where you are!
Caputos
Deli and Market in Utah that has a vast online market. Family run business that is obsessive over their products. “We have a responsibility to preserve and protect food items of unique provenance”.
Formaggio Kitchen
One of the greatest specialty food stores. The curation and diversity in such a small space is just damn impressive. I always end up walking out with something completely new. They have a great online platform but if you’re in Boston or NYC you’re lucky enough to be able to scour the aisles IRL.
Sahadis
“A Brooklyn Tradition” are the words on the back of the Sahadi’s shirt I bought…. safe to say I am a fan. This Lebanese family built one of the coolest shops in Brooklyn. With a focus on mainly Middle Eastern products, they have an array of spices, grains, preserves, pickles, and bulk bin galore of nuts, dried fruits, and olives.
Kalustyans
If you live in NYC then you are most likely familiar with Kalustyans. Known for their spice selection, they have built a serious inventory of canned and jarred products mainly from the middle east.
Your local grocery
When in doubt check out your local grocery. You’d be surprised what you can find. Also its a great way to try out a new pantry staple without breaking the bank.
Vegetable Conservas and Antipasto Brands:
Les Moulins Mahjoub
Tunisian family-run farm operating since 1896. Incredibly high quality products preserved in traditional Southern Mediterranean methods.
Frantoio D’Oneglia
Olive oil and olive producer from Imperia, Italy. They also fantastic spring onions and eggplant preserved in olive oil.
Ziyad
Palestinian-founded company selling a wide variety of food products. Large selection of preserves, pickles, and canned goods. Notable products include the pickled hot peppers, pepper paste, chickpeas, and lupini beans.
Rosara
Artisan canned and jarred goods from the Navarra lowlands in Northern Spain. Fantastic artichokes, chickpeas, and cardoons.
Divina
Divina partners with small family-run farms to produce a wide array of Mediterranean products.
Casina Rossa
Family-run operation in Chieti, Italy selling a variety of products. I love their antipasto.
La Catedral
Killer preserved leeks, white asparagus, and artichokes.
Tinned Fish Brands:
Conservas de Cambados
Incredible Galician producer who’s been around since 1985. You really can’t go wrong here but I love their bivalves (mussels, clams, scallops, cockles).
Ar de Arte
Another fantastic Galician producer making some of the highest quality tins out there. Big fan of their razor clams, sardines, and scallops.
Jose Gourmet
High end Portuguese producer sourcing only the best ingredients. Focused on fair trade practices with both how they source and how they sell. I love their spiced calamari in ragout sauce.
Patagonia Provisions
Patagonia subsidiary focused on responsibly sourced products. I love the transparency around every product. The smoked mussels are a favorite.
La Curiosa
By now you should know that Galicia is the kingpin of tinned fish. La Curiosa is another top notch producer. They are a relatively young brand but have built a name around preserving both tradition and quality. I love love love their mussels and have used them for pop-ups in the past.
Island Creek Oysters
Some of the best people with BIG plans for tinned fish. They collaborated with Mariscadora, a Spanish tinned fish producer on a few very special tins. I love the cockles and razor clams.
Scout
Chef Charlotte Langley reinvigorated the tinned fish industry in North America. For the past 10 years she has been building relationships with fisherman committed to responsible seafood sourcing. I LOVE the rainbow trout with dill.
Yes! I used to live in Brooklyn, New York, in a few areas ... Sunset Park, Williamsburg, Bushwick ... and I remember taking the trains, a few of them, to go to an area of Brooklyn, New York that had a bodega that sold tins of herring in mustard sauce. I forgot the exact area but the clerk was a beautiful Eastern European girl, maybe from Belarus or Russia, her voice so soft, like lapping water, I probably should have proposed right then and there. Anyway, I probably complimented her. Then, paid for the tins and returned to the tiny room and opened them and carefully enjoyed them in what can be described as a slow devour. Ha ha ha. Yes to sardines and yes to herring in mustard sauce. By the way, I was a line cook in a variety of restaurants in West Palm Beach, Florida and Palm Beach, Florida, years ago, for about 10+ years. And during one of those stints this book was being passed around and it was a fantastic read, a kind of Jack Kerouac and Ernest Hemingway in the kitchen. It was "Kitchen Confidential" by Anthony Bourdain. Interesting times. Food is a journey. Food is a message. Food is a memory. And food is a story.
Hard agree on the olives! And so glad to see your shout out for Island Creek. Great people with fantastic products.