Yes! I used to live in Brooklyn, New York, in a few areas ... Sunset Park, Williamsburg, Bushwick ... and I remember taking the trains, a few of them, to go to an area of Brooklyn, New York that had a bodega that sold tins of herring in mustard sauce. I forgot the exact area but the clerk was a beautiful Eastern European girl, maybe from Belarus or Russia, her voice so soft, like lapping water, I probably should have proposed right then and there. Anyway, I probably complimented her. Then, paid for the tins and returned to the tiny room and opened them and carefully enjoyed them in what can be described as a slow devour. Ha ha ha. Yes to sardines and yes to herring in mustard sauce. By the way, I was a line cook in a variety of restaurants in West Palm Beach, Florida and Palm Beach, Florida, years ago, for about 10+ years. And during one of those stints this book was being passed around and it was a fantastic read, a kind of Jack Kerouac and Ernest Hemingway in the kitchen. It was "Kitchen Confidential" by Anthony Bourdain. Interesting times. Food is a journey. Food is a message. Food is a memory. And food is a story.
They don't call anchovies "Italian MSG" for nothing. Great for giving an umami boost to any Italian dish, and used properly you can't taste the "fish". Sardines are a great substitute. Dump a small can in a pot of spaghetti sauce. Worcestershire sauce is basically rotten fish, and it doesn't taste like it.
I've never liked apple cider or malt vinegars (they have an "off" smell to me), but wine (including champagne) and other fruit vinegars (pear!) are great. Rice vinegar is great too. Just go easy so you get the snap without the acetate aroma.
Agreed on white balsamic--regular balsamic is so overdone to the point where it's become yuppie ketchup.
There are recipes on line for salads and hot dishes. I often throw them in my made from scratch soups or stir fries which are often Asian tasting. Asians will toss them into various dishes.
My favorite brand is Season, which are gutted and skinned and packed in olive oil, usually with a foil peel cover. No sharp edges. I get them when they go on sale at Costco.
I.would also add Natural Catch Tuna. Delicious filets packed in EVOO. Responsibly harvested. A meal in a tin. Online only. Thanks for the advice re sundried tomatoes!
I've tried every canned fish brand I could find, but none came close to Ramon Peña and Don Bocarte, especially for razor clams/octopus/cockles/anchovies. Didn't realize about Huertas :(
Mezzetta Brand Martini olives with pimento are basic yummy olives with less sodium than any other cocktail olive I have found. Always in our house, and artichokes hearts and sardines and saltine crackers…
Sahadi's is great, and lots of New Yorkers shop there, but Middle Easterners from New York looking for better prices make the trek out to Paterson, NJ which has a big shopping district full of Arabic and Turkish shops. The 2 main grocery stores are Nouri Brothers and Fattal's on Main St. but also check out Corrado's supermarket, which has a huge selection of imported canned goods, Taskin Bakery on Hazel St. and E. Railway Ave. for the produce market.
I too grew up w a father who ate sardines on saltines! And as we lived in Maine, sardines were a product of, and part of our culture. I eat them now out of the can at the kitchen sink! Another canned product I’ve come to love is squid or octopus, marinated or in oil..
I enjoyed your article very much. On a trip to FL we stopped at Tarpon Springs on the west coast that was settled by Greek fisherman. We had a lovely lunch there that introduced me to capers and anchovies. When I got home I made it a point to buy both of these tasty items. I used to enjoy smoked oysters too, though once I tried raw oysters I moved on to them. I will try to find some of the products you suggest.
Yes! I used to live in Brooklyn, New York, in a few areas ... Sunset Park, Williamsburg, Bushwick ... and I remember taking the trains, a few of them, to go to an area of Brooklyn, New York that had a bodega that sold tins of herring in mustard sauce. I forgot the exact area but the clerk was a beautiful Eastern European girl, maybe from Belarus or Russia, her voice so soft, like lapping water, I probably should have proposed right then and there. Anyway, I probably complimented her. Then, paid for the tins and returned to the tiny room and opened them and carefully enjoyed them in what can be described as a slow devour. Ha ha ha. Yes to sardines and yes to herring in mustard sauce. By the way, I was a line cook in a variety of restaurants in West Palm Beach, Florida and Palm Beach, Florida, years ago, for about 10+ years. And during one of those stints this book was being passed around and it was a fantastic read, a kind of Jack Kerouac and Ernest Hemingway in the kitchen. It was "Kitchen Confidential" by Anthony Bourdain. Interesting times. Food is a journey. Food is a message. Food is a memory. And food is a story.
Hard agree on the olives! And so glad to see your shout out for Island Creek. Great people with fantastic products.
They don't call anchovies "Italian MSG" for nothing. Great for giving an umami boost to any Italian dish, and used properly you can't taste the "fish". Sardines are a great substitute. Dump a small can in a pot of spaghetti sauce. Worcestershire sauce is basically rotten fish, and it doesn't taste like it.
I've never liked apple cider or malt vinegars (they have an "off" smell to me), but wine (including champagne) and other fruit vinegars (pear!) are great. Rice vinegar is great too. Just go easy so you get the snap without the acetate aroma.
Agreed on white balsamic--regular balsamic is so overdone to the point where it's become yuppie ketchup.
I’m sold!! But how do you eat the tinned fish? Straight out of the tin? Mixed with other things? Added to a sandwich? On crackers?
There are recipes on line for salads and hot dishes. I often throw them in my made from scratch soups or stir fries which are often Asian tasting. Asians will toss them into various dishes.
My favorite brand is Season, which are gutted and skinned and packed in olive oil, usually with a foil peel cover. No sharp edges. I get them when they go on sale at Costco.
Either plain with saltines or with a bit of hot sauce!
Niçoise salad!
Stoned Wheat Thins are my favorite cracker for eating with smoked mussels or oysters, They're less salty than saltines.
Straight out of the tin with a spoon. I like a little Tabasco sprinkled on, and a few saltines on the side.
I.would also add Natural Catch Tuna. Delicious filets packed in EVOO. Responsibly harvested. A meal in a tin. Online only. Thanks for the advice re sundried tomatoes!
I agree canned beans are gloriously cheap, but why not jarred beans alongside them -- especially with the preface of a Spanish product inspiration?
I've tried every canned fish brand I could find, but none came close to Ramon Peña and Don Bocarte, especially for razor clams/octopus/cockles/anchovies. Didn't realize about Huertas :(
Just recently discovered preserved lemon, so yummy. Rory O'Connell has a great recipe for making them at home. Easy.
Thank you for the shout-out to Caputo's in Salt Lake City! Wonderful family, friends of mine, top-notch purveyors.
Mezzetta Brand Martini olives with pimento are basic yummy olives with less sodium than any other cocktail olive I have found. Always in our house, and artichokes hearts and sardines and saltine crackers…
Sahadi's is great, and lots of New Yorkers shop there, but Middle Easterners from New York looking for better prices make the trek out to Paterson, NJ which has a big shopping district full of Arabic and Turkish shops. The 2 main grocery stores are Nouri Brothers and Fattal's on Main St. but also check out Corrado's supermarket, which has a huge selection of imported canned goods, Taskin Bakery on Hazel St. and E. Railway Ave. for the produce market.
I too grew up w a father who ate sardines on saltines! And as we lived in Maine, sardines were a product of, and part of our culture. I eat them now out of the can at the kitchen sink! Another canned product I’ve come to love is squid or octopus, marinated or in oil..
I enjoyed your article very much. On a trip to FL we stopped at Tarpon Springs on the west coast that was settled by Greek fisherman. We had a lovely lunch there that introduced me to capers and anchovies. When I got home I made it a point to buy both of these tasty items. I used to enjoy smoked oysters too, though once I tried raw oysters I moved on to them. I will try to find some of the products you suggest.
If you're big on sandwiches, sun dried tomatoes are a must! Great list though, I will use it as a guide for when I move for college.
Sounds great